Travel Report From Sea
Monday May 14, 2007. We are at sea traveling from Greece to Malta. The ocean is like a lake, thank goodness. Our last stop was at a Greek island at the port of Fiskardko where we anchored. The beautiful small town is located on the water with small fishing boats along a walk way that runs around the harbor and villiage. Shops and outdoor restaurants line the walk. Only small ships like ours would fit here. The island was devastated by an earthquake in 1953. Most of the existing structures were destroyed or damaged. New construction requires cement and reinforcement of steel. One sees the damaged buildings here and there.
We signed up for our first tour on this trip. A four hour one which goes to Melissani lake and Melissani cave. We were on a large tour bus which was rather full. The tour is four hours long and the trip to the lake took over an hour. Why is it Greek tour guides think they need to talk continuously and not about what we are seeing, but rather about trivia or historical information? This woman guide sat in the front of the bus, never turning around and never giving a chance for questions while talking non stop in a monotone over a very loud speaker system. While we drove past structures and natural formations of interest she ignored them all and instead explained how children’s names are selected in Greece or the role of God parents in baptism in Greece like a teacher in a classroom telling students something they really didn’t want to learn. I finally put my ear plugs in for my Italian tapes and practiced my Italian. I think trial lawyers often do the same thing to jurors. This will be my last tour.
It was a drive on a very narrow twisting highway along a sheer drop off thousands of feet to the ocean below. Amalfi drive in Italy wasn’t as challenging, but it was very beautiful. We passed through small villages and flowers were everywhere. Olive trees are growing in many places and grapes as well. We arrived at the large Melissani Lake. This lake is fed underground from the salt water with a mix of salt and fresh water. We drove on a short distance to Melissani Cave where we went down a long ramp into an underground cavern where there is a lake. The first opening was about 50 to 75 yards in diameter. The roof was a good three stories above and a large portion had collapsed. It was domed shaped. There was a narrow water way into another portion that had not fallen. Two large rowboats were rowed by men standing up and we sat along the sides while they took us on a round trip. Limestone structures hung down from the ceiling. It was interesting because it was a very larger underground cave with a lake, but with a portion of the roof collapsed letting in light. There is underground lake like this one on the island as well.
Afterwords, I walked over to a small cemetery with white head stones to photograph it and saw a man kneeling in front of one grave praying. There were bright red flowers growing on the white washed calls surrounding the area.
From there the bus took us to a very tiny village on the water, Assos. Getting there was an adventure. The very narrow road had very sharp curves. The bus had to stop and back up and go forward to get around them. There was no room for any car other other then the bus as it made its way from the top of the highway down the long road to the water below. A circular bay with a rocky beech and some small restaurants were located along the water edge. Two men were loading their gill net into a very narrow but brightly painted fishing boat. Lita and I stopped at one restaurant and had a beer and fresh olives. An over weight woman and her husband were on the beach a short distance away. She decided to sun bath topless. Not a pretty sight, but it contributed to the entertainment. On the way back up the path to the bus, Lita bought a jar of local honey which I am hopeful will make it home without losing the contents in the suitcase.
When we arrived back at Fiskardko and the guide finally stopped talking, Lita and I walked along the wide sidewalk next to the water past the various restaurants and small shops. I found one shop selling Columbia shoes and clothing from Washington state. We had lunch. I had squid and a dish of pasta with shrimp that was very fresh and good. The Greek beer is strong but tastes good. Within several feet right in front of us were small narrow fishing boats tied up and moving up and down with the waves. They are painted bright colors with white sides. The water is so clear you can easily see small fish swimming around. Locals walk on this warm Sunday afternoon.
Afterwords, Lita and I went back to the ship. The water is calm and the weather pleasantly warm.
I checked my Blackberry (which has worked perfectly the whole trip) and found that a lawyer friend in another state had died at age 46. Dan Cullan was a physician and lawyer who was a delightful fellow I had come to know at the Spence Ranch and then in Inner Circle. His two sons went to medical school in Ireland and then law school. He was a bright humble man who had obtained record verdicts as a plaintiff trial lawyer. I will miss my e-mail exchanges and seeing him.